Wednesday 28 March 2018

The top of the world in Miranda do Douro

Spring's not come yet ... no wild geese flying overhead (Shakespeare aficionados will recognize the reference ...). The boat still gets very bumpy and the nights are filled with squeaks and groans from the mooring ropes. The clocks have sprung forwards and the light has changed, and indeed, for the first time this year we have supped in the back cockpit, enjoying the sun. This interlude did not last long.
I picked up a head-cold on the train coming back from Braga. Sniff snuff, and cough cough. Irritating.
But last weekend we rented a car and drove up to Miranda do Douro, ancient city, former Roman settlement, deserted in the 1960s, now regaining life and colour, and home, among other things to the wonderful lively songs and dances in la musica tradicional di Tras-is-Montes. There is an apart language still taught in the schools of the region of Miranda,  a cross between Portuguese and Spanish. The music is delightful, full of syncopation, reminiscent of medieval French music. Happily, I bought a CD in the museu of Miranda do Douro. A joy preserved.
This small city stands atop a stupendous gorge, at the bottom of which curls the Douro. We were lucky enough to capture some sunny spells and walked to a point high above the river, where a lone hawk was hovering...
We sat there, no one else around, and even the wind grew quiet.
This is one the most impressive places I have ever been. So far unmarked by signposts and barbed-wire fences. I thought you could quite easily tumble off one of these edges, and fall a long way down.
Here we are sitting securely, with our sturdy walking sticks (bought for hiking in Brunei!) and full of peace.
Well, at this point
 my reader is meant to see two pix of David, and me, side by side: BUT I have still not mastered the intricacies of putting pix where I want them...





Anyway, if you look carefully at these photos, far below at the left you will see a green-brown curl of water which is the river Douro.
Miranda is a joy for every historically-minded visitor and seems to be on a revival course. The cathedral is built above a former mosque, above a pagan temple and clearly in the most admirable position. See pic of the commanding position:








Inside the cathedral we found some remarkable paintings, oil on wood panels in the Choir section.  And a sweetie Madonna Lactans carved from wood in the 15th century. Very simple and pleasingly un-baroque!!
It wasn't clear to me whether she came from the cathedral or had been transported from elsewhere. But a very sweet Mary.


We spent some time in the Museum of Miranda, accompanied by an elderly lady with whom we communicated in our Portuguese... which went very well.

And later we ordered a typical Mirandese meal with no problem!!

The next day we drove to Braganza and Chaves...

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